A Mosaic Tour of Pompeii and Tuscany
Mosaic Study Tour with Ingiro Tours and Helen Bodycomb and Maestro Arianna Gallo from Koko Mosaics (Ravenna)
In September, I joined a group of passionate mosaic students on a study tour to Pompeii and Tuscany. Having never been to Pompeii before, I was excited to explore the site with guides who really knew about Roman mosaics. The trip also included a hands-on workshop with Italian maestra Arianna Gallo, held in a medieval castle tucked away in the Tuscan countryside.
Travel, ancient mosaics, castle life and incredible Italian food—it sounded too good an opportunity to pass up!
Naples, Pompeii and surrounds
The rain during our visit to Pompeii was relentless—but it came with two unexpected perks. The less brave (or merely curious) tourists fled the site, and the rain-soaked surface revealed the rich colours of the marble mosaics. I was surprised to learn that most of the detailed mosaics have been relocated to the Naples Archaeological Museum, so the next day we headed there to view the incredibly intricate Pompeii mosaics.
My favourite ancient site was Oplontis, not far from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Here, the luxurious Roman seaside villas are largely in tact after being buried for centuries. The walls are painted with vibrant frescoes, and offer a glimpse into how the very rich once lived.
Many mosaics acted like doormats at the entrance to homes.
Looking at mosaics in the rain is quite a skill!
The greens and red are only visible when the surface is wet
The famous “Cave Carnem” (Beware of the dog) mosaics were a trope placed at the entrance to homes.
Our beautiful hotel in Naples.
Detail of a fresco at Villa Oplontis.
Niki de St Phalle’s Tarot Garden
The aim of our mosaic tour was to trace connections between ancient and modern mosaics. So, on our journey from Naples to our Tuscan castle, we made a detour to Niki de Saint Phalle’s Tarot Garden. Built in the 1980s and inspired by Gaudí’s Parc Güell in Barcelona, entering the gardens felt like stepping into someone’s wild and fanciful imagination.
I had visited here some twenty years ago when you could wander almost alone among the massive sculptures. Back then, the place had a forlorn, slightly neglected air. This time, it was crammed with visitors exploring the grounds and posing against the bright glass backdrops. Whether this is the instagram effect or not, I have no doubt Niki would be thrilled seeing the success of her artistic legacy.
Visitors exploring the park and vying for the perfect photo!
“I was meant to do a garden which would bring joy, where people could bring their children, a garden which would combine art and nature. It wasn’t even my choice; it was my destiny.”
A Castle in Tuscany
We arrived at Castello di Potentino after dark, and on entering the medieval building my immediate impression was that here is a home for artists. Paintings and framed photos were displayed salon-style on the walls, bookcases were crammed with antiquarian books, and despite the grandeur of the castle’s interiors, the atmosphere was welcoming and homely. Tired from our day of travel, we were invited into the dining room and seated at a long communal table where we were served a delicious meal of local produce and the castle’s own wine. My room was three storeys up in the attic and after sleeping deeply, I awoke early the next morning to the sound of honking geese. Sigh!
We were here to work and learn - and every morning we gathered in the loggia to learn from our Italian teacher, Arianna from Koko Mosaico. The students’ mosaics combined imagery from the Tarot Garden with ancient mosaic designs. My mosaic was inspired by an ancient floor seen in Pompeii and I opted to continue this style for the whole piece. I love how it looks both ancient and contemporary, and I’m looking forward to teaching this style of mosaic.
If you are curious about joining a bespoke workshop in Italy, I recommend contacting Ingrid from In giro Tours. Everyone was looked after beautifully, and Ingrid’s tours offer a wonderful opportunity to explore hidden places not available to mainstream travellers.
Room with a view!
